Tom Brokaw on Mt. Rainier

Rick Ridgeway
You may know Tom Brokaw as the former anchor of NBC Nightly News. But did you know he was an avid mountaineer?
In the mid-1980s, he embarked on his first ice climb, on Mt. Rainier.
In His Own Words...
[Expert climbers, Rick Ridgeway and Yvon Chouinard,] thought Mt. Rainier, the 14,410-foot-high dormant volcano that lies 60 miles southeast of Seattle, would be a fitting test of my appetite for major mountains.
They had been attempting to convert me from a simple backpacker to a real climber. So far, we had been up Grand Teton and Mt. Moran in Wyoming; and a number of lesser routes in California, New York and Colorado.
Rainier is appealing to climb because in two or three days you can distill many of the experiences of a major expedition: It is covered by massive glaciers with foreboding ice cliffs; the elevation is taxing because climbing begins near sea level; and the weather is wildly unpredictable, everything from sunshine, snow, fog, ice, wind and rain in any given 24-hour period.
The first day on Rainier went well considering that, as an ice-and-snow climber, I was a work-in-progress. I had been introduced to crampons just the night before when Chouinard turned me loose on a small patch of glacier at our embarkation point.
Like a small child with a new pair of shoes, I strutted across the icy surface, careful to keep the sharp points of the crampons out of my trouser legs. Snagging yourself, apparently, is a common problem and a potentially fatal one if you're on a steep pitch, attempting to make the next step.
That was the extent of my crampon training: 15 minutes on a relatively level section of glacier. Little wonder I was tentative as we started up the steep slopes of Rainier, especially since the other men, given their experience, didn't feel the need for ropes.
I was not sure how to use the ice ax, so later that morning Chouinard organized another short course. He took me to a small, moderately steep pitch and told me to fall face down on the snow, planting my ax in one motion. It worked. I self-arrested, as they say.
After half a dozen more falls, Chouinard pronounced me ready to proceed, although he did say that, as a rule, he spends two full days with students who want to learn ice-climbing techniques.
'But you'll be all right,' he said.
I took him at his word.
Photo: Tom Brokaw, right; Yvon Chounaird, founder of Patagonia, center)
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