How to Sauce Your Barbecued Meats Like an Original American Pitmaster (Part 3: The Sauce)

The Solana pitmasters who pioneered America's world-class barbecue cuisine were renowned for their skills; their technique; their flavors; and the succulent juiciness of their meats come suppertime.
One of the secrets to their legendary success was their Secret BBQ Sauce:
"During the process of roasting, the cooks basted the carcasses with a [sauce]... and this was continued until the meat was ready to serve," writes Louis Hughes in his 1897 memoir, Thirty Years a Slave.
As I conducted historical research for the Barbecue episode of my The United States of Yum! podcast series, I discovered an interesting pattern...
The Base
Per eyewitness accounts spanning states and decades, Solana pitmasters used a similar set of ingredients as the baseline for their Secret BBQ Sauce:
On a plantation in Georgia in the 1800s, Mary Ross Banks got to watch Solana pitmaster, Mr. Smart, in action:
"Near the pit stands a large tin bucket containing a mixture of butter, salt, vinegar, black and red pepper which, together with the drippings from the browning meats, he constantly applies with a mop, that all may be thoroughly seasoned when ready to serve."
The Secret
Hundreds of miles away, on a different plantation in Tennessee, Martha McCulloch-Williams witnessed the very same as pitmaster, "Daddy Black," worked his magic.
After he melted sweet lard in a brass kettle and infused it with black pepper, fiery red peppers, salt, and apple cider vinegar, Martha writes that he would add "herbs in powder — he would never tell what they were."
Like other tried and true pitmasters, then to now, Daddy Black kept a few secrets to himself when it came to his Secret BBQ Sauce — a unique blend of herbs and spices known only to him and his most trusted of kin.
Sir Mops-a-Lot
Martha also describes the deft way pitmasters would mop the sauce, ensuring that not a single drop was lost.
"A fresh, clean mop was dabbed lightly in the mixture, and as lightly smeared over the upper sides of the carcasses. Not a drop was permitted to fall on the coals — it would have sent up smoke, and films of light ashes."
When the meat was hot n' ready, it was placed on wooden trays; then "deluged with the sauce, which the mop-man smeared fully over it."
From Their Grill to Yours
What I find most fascinating is that America's go-to BBQ sauce of olde was butter- or lard-based. Quite different from the BBQ sauces and marinades that line our grocery shelves today.
Yet, all is not lost...
Months ago, I interviewed a Solana grillmaster as he manned the grill during a summertime, family BBQ.
After he added a seasoned rack of pork ribs to the grill, he started spritzing it with vegetable oil — a butter substitute. When I asked him why, he replied:
"To keep the flavor in it. It automatically has salt in it... depending on which brand you get."
"I see," I said with a quick nod. "Because salt is going to hold in more of that moisture?"
"Correct."
As you can see, the use of butter or the like amongst Solana grillmasters and pitmasters is still alive and well today. Just in different ways.
So, if you love history, and if you love to barbecue, you should definitely give The Original Solana Pitmaster Barbecue Mop Sauce Secret Recipe a try.
Let me know what you think.
Bon appetit!
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